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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.